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The title of this we(blog) is a response to the snarky and mildly offensive attitude of some Los Angeles county beach community residents, namely, that There Is No Life East Of Sepulveda.

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Friday, October 12, 2007

Sambar

This south Indian style recipe has been synthesized from several others by Madhur Jaffrey and Julie Sahni to suit my tastes. I've found that cookbook recipes and mine result in a fairly thick consistency compared to the watery sambar found at most South Indian restaurants.

Ingredients
------------
1 c. masoor or toor dal
4 c. water
1/2 tsp. turmeric powder
3 TB cilantro stems , finely minced
1 tsp kosher salt
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2 TB butter or ghee
1 lb vegetable, diced in 1/2 inch cubes or broken up (cauliflower, squash, eggplant or your choice)
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 TB tamarind concentrate
1 tsp kosher salt
-----
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp hot chile powder (cayenne, de arbol)
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2 TB butter or ghee
1 tsp mustard seeds
3 TB cilantro leaves, minced

Preparation
------------
- Soak the dal in a large (minimum 4 qt) pot overnight with at least double the volume of water. Drain, then add the 4 cups fresh water, turmeric, cilantro stems, 1 tsp salt and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes or until just tender. Remove from heat.
- While the dal is cooking, melt 2 TB butter in another sauce pan. Peel and dice the vegetable, then add to the pan with the garlic, 1 tsp salt and sweat until mostly cooked through (barely 'al dente', varies by vegetable). Add the vegetable mixture and tamarind concentrate to the dal.
- Grind the cumin, coriander, fenugreek seeds and 1/2 tsp salt in a mortar or spice grinder. Add the ground spices, pepper and chile powder to the vegetable mixture and mix gently. Cook over low heat for 30 minutes to one hour until the vegetables are soft but not mushy.
- When the vegetable mixture has completed cooking, melt the remaining 2 TB butter in a pan and add the mustard seeds. When the seeds start to pop, pour over the vegetable mixture and sprinkle with the cilantro leaves.

Serves 8.

Lentil salad, Lebanese style

The late Jeff Smith published a number of cookbooks notable for their range of ethnic food coverage and accessibility to the modestly skilled cook. Due to his notoriety later in life the cookbooks are not likely to be republished, so pick them up used wherever you can. They are American classics!

This recipe is close to one in his first cookbook The Frugal Gourmet. When in doubt, add a little more lemon juice. It is simple, refreshing and easy to prepare.

Ingredients
-------------
1/2 lb brown lentils
1 bunch (8 small) green onions, minced
1/2 c. fresh parsley, chopped
2 or 3 lemons
1/2 c. olive oil
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. salt
1 clove garlic, finely minced (optional)
1/2 tsp. coriander powder (optional)
1/2 tsp. cumin powder (optional)


PREPARATION

- Rinse the lentils in a mixing bowl of cold water, then drain.

- In a 3 qt covered stock pot, simmer the lentils in 3 c. of water and the salt for 15 minutes or until just tender. Do NOT overcook or the lentils will become mushy.

- While the lentils are cooking, juice the lemons into a mixing bowl and add the olive oil, garlic, coriander, cumin and black pepper; whisk vigorously to mix into an emulsion.

- Drain the lentils into the bowl, add the green onions, parsley, dressing and toss to mix.

- Chill in the refrigerator for an hour before serving.

Serves 4.

Paprika sauce

This recipe is a variation of the late Jeff Smith's from his cookbook The Frugal Gourmet on our Immigrant Ancestors. I wouldn't call it authentic Hungarian, but it is delicious on stuffed peppers, meat, sauerkraut, maybe even an old shoe.

Ingredients
-------------
2 TB freshly rendered lard (or substitute vegetable oil)
1 large yellow onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 TB Hungarian paprika (or more to taste)
2 c. mild green chiles, seeded and minced (anaheim, cubanelle, or poblano)
8 oz tomato, chopped (or substitute tomato sauce or puree)
1 tsp chicken base, low salt
4 c. beef stock
1/4 c. flour
1 c. sour cream

Preparation
-------------
In a small bowl mix 1 cup of the beef stock and half of the flour into a lump free slurry, then set aside.
In a 3 qt sauce pan heat the lard and sweat the onion on low heat until soft.
Add the garlic and paprika and cook for a few more minutes.
Add the beef stock/flour mixture to the pan, increase the heat to medium and simmer for about ten minutes.
In a small bowl mix the sour cream and remaining flour thoroughly, then set aside.*
Add the chiles, tomato, chicken base and remaining beef stock and simmer for 30 minutes or until reduced by half.
Reduce the heat to low, add the sour cream mixture, bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes.
Remove from the heat, let sauce cool, pour into a blending container and blend until smooth.

*If you intend to freeze the sauce, leave out the sour cream / flour mixture and add it later.

Tetrazzini

Tetrazzini was reported invented by the chef of the Palace Hotel in San Francisco to honor the Italian soprano Luisa Tetrazzini. I find it hard to believe that it wasn't inspired by her performance in the city on Christmas Eve 1910.

The original recipe first appeared in the Boston Cooking School cookbook and was published later in Gourmet, Sunset and other magazines.

The recipe is best enjoyed undoctored by additional vegetables and spices; let the key players of poultry, mushroom, cream, parmesan cheese, and sherry speak for themselves.

Ingredients
-------------------------
3 TB butter
8 oz fresh mushrooms, sliced
1 TB flour
1 c. chicken stock
salt, to taste
1/4 c. cream
1/4 c. dry sherry
8 oz spaghetti pasta, broken in half and cooked
2 c. turkey or chicken meat, cooked and diced
1/2 c. parmesan cheese, shredded

Preparation
-------------------
Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat and sweat the mushrooms until soft.
Sprinkle the flour in and cook for a few minutes to remove the raw taste.
Add the chicken stock and cream slowly, stirring constantly until the sauce starts to thicken; add salt to taste.
Remove from the heat, add the sherry, pasta, poultry, half the cheese and stir until mixed.
Turn into a greased baking dish, top with the remaining cheese and bake in a 375 degree F oven for 30 minutes or until browned.

Serves 3 to 4.

New, New Joe's Special

My update of a recipe originating in restaurants of the San Francisco neighborhood of North Beach, then published in Sunset magazine decades ago.

Ingredients
--------------
1 tbsp olive oil
1 lb ground lean meat (beef, pork and/or turkey)
1 medium onion, finely minced
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced, or more to taste
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp black pepper
1 lb frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry or 1 pound fresh spinach, rinsed, and chopped
6 large eggs, lightly beaten

Preparation
--------------
In a large skillet or saute pan, cook beef in oil on high heat until browned; drain excess fat.
Reduce heat to medium, add onions, garlic, salt and mushrooms and cook until the vegetables are soft.
Stir in nutmeg, pepper, oregano and spinach; cook for about 5 more minutes.
Reduce heat to low, add the eggs and cook until the eggs are softly set.

Makes about six servings.

UPDATE - Mixing in a cup of cooked long grain rice lightens the body and adds a carb and texture component which can be appealing.

Western Meal In One

Here's my updated version of another Sunset classic:

Ingredients
-------------
1 lb. ground beef, lean
1 tbsp. vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp. salt
1 large onion, minced
1 green bell pepper or poblano chile, seeded and minced
1 tsp. chile powder, medium heat (New Mexico, guajillo)
1 16 oz can diced tomatoes
1 16 oz can kidney beans, rinsed and drained
3/4 c. long grain rice, uncooked
1/2 c. olives, pitted and minced
1 c. shredded cheddar cheese

Preparation
------------
Sweat garlic, salt, onion, green pepper, and chile powder in the oil until vegetables are limp.
Add the ground beef and brown until pink color is gone.
Mix in tomatoes, kidney beans, and rice, then fold into a greased 2 quart baking dish.
Bake, uncovered, in a 350 degree oven for 45 minutes.
Sprinkle with olives and cheese, and continue baking until the cheese is melted.

Makes 8 servings.

More, More, More - the recipe

And now for something complete different .... (from eating out).
One of my favorite casserole recipes is named 'More', originally published in Sunset magazine decades ago. Due to its simple name I haven't been able to find it posted anywhere (technically which would be a copyright violation but, hey, Sunset doesn't publish cookbooks any more). Here's my modernized version:

More, More, More
-------------------

Ingredients
------------
1 lb ground beef, lean
4 slices bacon
1 small onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
12 oz dried pasta (broken up spaghetti or thick fideo)
1 can (28 oz) diced tomatoes
1 pkg (10 oz) frozen peas
1 red bell pepper, minced (or substitute a roasted poblano chile)
6 oz olives, pitted and chopped
2 c sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

Preparation
------------
Fry the bacon slowly in a large saute pan to extract the fat, then remove to drain on paper towels.
Saute the pasta in the fat until browned, remove to a large pot of salted boiling water, cook until al dente, then drain thoroughly.
Meanwhile, saute the onion, garlic and bell pepper in the remaining fat until the vegetables are soft.
Add the salt, black pepper and crumble the beef into the pan and saute until browned.
Remove from the heat and let cool until barely warm.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
Reserve half of the olives and cheese, then combine the rest of the ingredients and mix gently.
Fold into a greased 3 qt casserole dish, cover with the remaining olives and cheese, then bake for 20 minutes (or until the cheese is melted).

Serves 6 to 8.